Every surfer struggles to balance a committed surfing life with their inevitable responsibilities. Some manage, some don’t.
Perhaps the absence of a father rendered the objects left behind more precious – mythical ornaments to fill the void where ...
With its soaring slopes, brilliant shade of green and curiously flattened-peak, Ben Bulben commands your attention like some kind of giant, ancient sentinel marking your arrival in the territory. The ...
I first met the late and lamented Uncle Clyde, along with brother Eddie, at the ‘peace’ meeting at the Kuilima Resort on Kahuku Point early in November 1976, at the height of what was to famously ...
This particular year he came with his childhood friend, Serena Brooke. Nothing too noteworthy about this late afternoon ...
Seventeen-year-old wunderkind, Milla Brown, is on the phone reflecting on her last-minute flight to Micronesia to take part ...
As far as riding waves goes, their entry points are a little different. While Kyuss is pulling on a Challenger Series contest ...
Morphic Resonance and the Quantum Entanglement of Greenough, Brewer and McTavish.
Seeking a unique way to explore the coastlines of Aotearoa (New Zealand) and engage with the real surfing communities , ...
The unstoppable Gary Hughes has racked up five decades chasing big waves, exciting women, and raucous rock’n’roll. And he’s ...
Albe Falzon could feel the shift coming like the first lick of a southerly change. By the late 60s, Australian youth were ...
Legendary filmmaker Jack McCoy was well known for hitting the road with his amazing surf movies and popular talk-story shows.